Baikal of wonders

The land of Baikal region in Russia has always been sacred for the local indigenous peoples – buryats. And shamans who could talk to local gods were revered as a hereditary caste of the chosen. After 70 years of stagnation the religious faith of their ancestors began to revive.

But even so locals refer to shamans just as to healers now. Many of shamans themselves are not aware of their destiny until, as they say, they won’t get a clear sign from Father Sky. For someone this sign can become a so-called shamanic illness. They believe that as long as they do not lead that being written, they will be accompanied by disease and failure. Someone recognises his path through a dream. Anyway, they sure, no one can refuse from gift of the gods. To preserve their culture they had to create professional unions, organize festivals, scientific conferences.

In the wake of the popularity of the new-age culture the lake Baikal is mostly presented in guidebooks as the sacred center of the shaman’s world instead of the rare nature reserve. There are many tours offering visits to “the places of power”, advisory services from an “expert”, participation in ceremonies and sacred holidays. Amulets, totems and “real shaman drums” are in demand in local souvenir shops.

Alina Desyatnichenko went to the region of wonders to check what’s in this image, how much it costs and tried to understand whom shamans has become for locals and strangers: true followers of the faith of their ancestors, healers or just touristic amusements. She founded buryats that consider themselves as shamans and pictured them at their workplaces: either at the offices of local religious organizations of shamans, either at home. She also collected all thematic souvenirs that locals usually offer tourists when they gonna leave either legendary city or settlement, either the whole region.

About the author:
Alina Desyatnichenko (b. 1991) is a documentary photographer based in Krasnodar, Russia. Born in Uzbekistan, at the age of 16 moved to Russia. Studied journalism at KubSU. She graduates at the school of modern photojournalism “Docdocdoc” of Mikhail Domozhilov. She has been working as a freelancer since 2010 and published by Dekoder, Takie dela, Russian reporter, Metropol, Russian planet and others.

Khuzhir settlement, next to Shaman rock.

Shaman rock is the promontory in the middle of the Western coast of Olkhon island on the lake Baikal, one of the nine Holy places of Asia.

Irkutsk city, in the office of Local religious organization of shamans “Baikal”.

According to Rosstat, 1173,3 thousand of tourists visited the Irkutsk region last year: 1044,5 thousands were from Russia and 128.8 thousand were foreign.

Bilchir settlement, at home.

The cape Khoboy is the most Northern cape of Olkhon island on the lake Baikal. Buryat pagans revered this place as sacred.

Angarsk city, in the yurt of Local religious organization of shamans “Forever blue sky”.

A drum is an equipment dedicated only to initiated shamans. As soon the shaman had progressed in the hierarchy, so the number of drums increased.

Ust-Ordynsky settlement, in the yurt of Local religious organization of shamans “Heavenly lights”.

Tarasun is a traditional buryat so-called “milk vodka”, one of the essential ingredients mostly of all modern buryat shaman ceremonies.

Irkutsk city, at home.

There are local religious organizations of shamans: “Heavenly lights” in Ust-Ordynsky Buryat district, “Baikal” in Irkutsk, “Forever blue sky” in Angarsk, etc.

Elantsy settlement, in the yurt near by home.

Sagaan-dali is a low evergreen shrub that grows on the shores of the lake Baikal. Locals believed that this herb can prolong life, cure almost any disease.

Irkutsk city, at the kitchen in the residence.

Shaman-stone is a cult rock ledge at the source of Angara river. According to legend, the Master of Angara river Ama Sagan Noyon lives here.

Angarsk city, in the “working” yurt of Local religious organization of shamans “Forever blue sky”.

Spirits of ancestors descend grace and happiness from heaven through horsehair from the upper world. Black horsehair is considered as an attribute of doctoring.

Bayanday settlement, in his “working” house

Ongon is a deity, a guardian spirit of an ancestor or a whole clan.